Tuesday, 30 August 2011

Vernacular Architecture

Buildings locally developed with the test of time

Maybe there is a reason why Africa is still a non developed continent. Maybe they can sense the trouble of a developed capitalist society.

Vernacular architecture is the construction and building design of settlements that relate to their contexts and available resources. They are customarily owned or community built utilising traditional techniques.

The architecture focuses on meeting the specific needs accommodating the values, economies and ways of living of the cultures that produce them.

Vernacular architecture is constantly adapted and developed overtime as needs and circumstances change.  We can learn from these designs and must include some factors in the architecture of today. 

Church in Ethiopia constructed using local materials

Chicken and food storage huts

Vernacular architecture in Africa is fascinating. Africa has more beauty than I could have ever imagined. The people have lived with the nature; the buildings shape the surroundings; the materials of the surroundings shape the buildings. The architecture has evolved with nature.

The buildings are suited to their context

In the villages people young or old construct their own house themselves. While building, learning and teaching themselves off others people use the technologies that have adapted through time. These are often improved with green solutions to enhance and create beautiful sustainable buildings for the future. The people in the villages have low income yet save and buy solar panels as they understand the importance of using green energy. People see it is essential to care for the land and their environment. Solar panels do work extremely well in the tropical dry climate of East Africa.

I heard a story from an architect in Namibia about the American Indians. They lived and grew in one settlement building and looking after their cattle. One day they just upped and left. The reason for this was that they knew they were becoming too developed. The technology and system had become unsustainable. The land was being damaged.

Our future systems are perfected and heavily advanced which is very good for thermal comfort and ease.  We have maximised development but before overuse in materials and design we need to think of being sustainable for our future generations. Our buildings live and breathe like humans. With all of this technology it is essential to build using only green policies. There needs to be investigations and research on only the local materials and products in the area to secure zero carbon projects reusing and recycling materials efficiently.

With such powerful skills and research we should focus on:

• Finding quality materials sourced locally in a sustainable manner

• Reducing the cost of green solutions

• Spending time to research the use of simple construction techniques which can easily be passed onto the less knowledgeable or inexperienced people

Tuesday, 2 August 2011

The final flat!!

I don't know how many people said its all downhill from here as of course it never was and this was never funny!! The only downhill I can prominently recall was the final 3km down to the sea, the Cape of Good Hope, the southwestern most point of the African Continent. There the road finished. I couldn't physically cycle any further. It was the end.

Cape Town seemed so far at the start but it wasn’t too far at all and I really believe anyone could do it. It is all in the mind although my mind has not come to terms with my route. I have actually cycled 13,000km; down the length of East Africa.

Having crossed the border I was experiencing some overwhleming changes... there were street lights, hand dryers and huge metal barriers steering a car all of the way around the corner. I couldn't help thinking back to the steep Blue Nile Gorge in Ethiopia which had gravel and no safety railings not to forget the decrepid remains of a bus balancing toppled over the edge a kilometre below.

In the North of South Africa the mountains rolled between rocks and shadows while my thoughts rolled still shocked going over and over ' I can't believe I've made it to South Africa.'

Between the steep shards of the mountain ranges lay farmland organised like soldiers, all suited and booted, pruned and perfected in rows so immaculately structured ready for the next season, the next war. The farm was so pristine the sheep looked like they were grazing on golf courses. There were even small reservoirs across the land to ensure a sustainable resource of water for farming.

We left the main N1 road and took the scenic route along the West Coast through to Cape Town. We cycled some more gravel roads into the depths of the countryside. Yes I can now say I am cycling fit. I realised this when I preferred cycling up the hills rather than skidding down; I was having a few problems with my brakes! Still pedaling on, the strong smell of flowers overtook my senses. I'm pretty sure it wasn't Steve although he had had his first shower in 9 days the day before and he was cycling right infront of me.

South Africa was different, more developed; I spotted the sign, that internationally well known red old man in his glasses wearing his cooking apron.  There was a 5.5km KFC sign on a quiet road directing us to the built up area behind the hill.

Cycling past colourful fields fenced off by trees which were trimmed in the middle with the perfect views of the vineyards and green was all very refreshing.

Towns had western signs 'Lemon Tree Kaffee', this made me think of the streets in Ethiopia where we had to walk and ask and walk and ask for the local unmarked cafes. Not to forget that in Sudan these places were non existent. In South Africa and Namibia there are the red triangular watch out for animal signs everywhere; in North East Africa we were dodging the cows on our bikes as the animals had the right of way. The signs just got better!! The coastal route was peaceful.

As South Africa was more developed this meant I had different types of danger to be aware of, we were more careful and generally tried to camp on peoples land. This led us to some beautiful spots; my favourite was camping by the river of a nature reserve.

On my travels through South Africa I was waking up to;

• birds singing in the most dynamic rockscape

• ocean waves on the beach with the rising sun ahead

• wind swirling around natural passageways and high rising hills

I have definately accustomed myself to the noises of nature infact I have now grown to love them. In Sudan I remember lying awake worrying, hearing the tiniest creature scurrying through the sand.

In every place people talk about their neighbouring country with dangerous tales and warnings, this is definately a common theme we have found all over Africa. Again and agagin we have been treated and looked after. South Africa has even taken us to another level. We've been given:

• 10 english pounds by not 1 but 2 local people. This gets you a really good meal in South Africa which is what they both advised to get (the feed me sign on my head must have returned!!)

• 35 oranges by a delivery van that obviously didn't want to drive any further

• Water

We've also been offered numerous lifts. I can tell you now this is the WORST question to ask a cyclist. I responded in my head;

'Look at me, does it look like I need a lift. I have a fully loaded bike and I have obviously thought about this method of transport'.

This trip has definately restored my faith in humanity. I've been nowhere down the whole of East Africa where I can say I particularly felt unsafe. People are always so friendly and always want to help and add their stories and experiences to my journey. Maybe it is luck but I believe the world is much more positive than people make out.
There have been many similarities to England. The temperate climate, there is a town called Sunningdale, the BP garage (that even has the Wild Bean Cafe attached to it), the heather and plants. I could be in Chobham Common or Bracknell Forest. My thoughts were getting ready for home.

There have been some great smooth roads like Sudan (thanks again to the Chinese). I can tell the roads are good with perfectly smooth tarmac when my arse doesn't vibrate on the saddle this really makes a difference.

The hard shoulder is only used in emergency England but in South Africa the yellow line is just a marker. The space is used for slow lorries so cars can overtake etc. We ruled the hard shoulder on our bikes all the way into Cape Town. The honks of lorries were never scary screaming get out of the way like in Kenya or Tanzania they just waved exstatically to say hello. As we arrived into Cape Town we met a guy who offered us accomodation; "Would you like to stay in the city house or the beach house?". This made us giddy with excitement all the way into town.

Arriving in a flat in the middle of Cape Town and removing my bags and home for 9 months was a real comfort I felt relieved. During dinner we spoke of the stunning Cape Point route and the coast. My inital thoughts made me adament I would have a few days off. I then changed my mind very quickly and realised it was probably easier to cycle 70km a day with no luggage then get public transport!!! I thought back to the times travelling by bus where the chance of having no breakdowns were on par with winning at the fun loving slot machines. Memories also flooded back; the slowness of the whole process, the bumps on the road and the irrational speed of the drivers at the worst of times. These were not fun loving. I decided to take the easy option and cycle 140km around the Cape Peninsula to enjoy the outdoors and exercise. Without my heavy life in my panniers I felt as light as a feather and as free as a bird. My joy excelled.

We went down the West coast and enjoyed the best long winding road ever between the mountains and the ocean - the famous Chapmans Peak. This also gave us the perfect chance to stay with a great family (we exchanged details a few days back and got an invite). Our travellers luck has once again knocked us bang on the head. Thank you.

So I am currently on one big happy family holiday – well not quite but I am actually with my parents who have come out to celebrate and Steve and I squabble like brother and sister so I nearly have my whole family.

My head is flying, I can't believe I am actually flying home this month. It doesn't feel right getting on a plane after cycling the east of the African continent. Who am I kidding. YES YES YES I can't wait. If I have learned anything its that I know and really appreciate my luck

• from finding a pair of socks lying in the sand dunes when my last pair had massive holes in the toes

• to each and every person who I met that felt the need to look out for us

Steve the determined strong adventurous character faces many more challenges to come;

• Winter in Cape Town

• Another 4 years on the road

• The Patagonia mountains

• Getting across to South America in the first place

The biggest problem I have witnessed is the animals weeing on his tent. Dogs in Ethiopia, dogs in Malawi a cat in Namibia. The animal scent is permanent. This will be a problem which will continue all over the world!! Good luck to him and a massive Thank you. Without Steve this idea would never have crossed my mind. He has really been there for me and coped with my tiredness, abruptness and rudeness at the best and worst of times. Thank you for your patience, guidance and company. I would never have done anything like this without you.

I end with three rules for any cyclists

1. Never look at your speedometer or check your distance when cycling up any gradient

2. Don't attack the wind, enjoy it behind the other cyclist. Diffracted fragmented swirls of wind is much more fun and makes it slightly easier to cycle

3. Wave and smile at everything. Positive attitude gets you a long way.

So having finished the end of my trip I have cycled the Cape Peninsula, climbed Table Mountain and Signal Hill, walked every street in Cape Town and found a local pool to swim most days. I think the fitness has affected my brain, I love it. What next…



The crowds of people screaming and waving in villages along the Nile as we cycled with sirens of our police escorts.

The friendly invites for tea from the Sudanese people into the segregated housing arrangements of the strict Muslim homes.

The kids helping pushing me up the Ethiopian mountains then running back to their cattle with an item from my pannier.

The Kenya National Parks with the most unique wildlife, lakes and beauty.

The steam evaporating in the early mornings off the tarmac roads from the rainforests of Uganda.

The swirling roads going up and down the hills of Rwanda cycling between the rice fields and tree plantations.

The flat roads of Tanzania remembered for the crazy lorry drivers, rain storms and rainbows.

The long tables covered with fish drying all over the beaches of Lake Malawi.

The markets, creative characters and tourist attractions of Zambia.

The Namibian scenery; the sunrise and sunsets in the desert dunes and on the mountains.

The best of braai and bonfires in the towns built between the mountains of South Africa.

I will never forget the streets of colourful people, local markets, parties, dancing, drumming singing and smiles. What a continent.



Friday, 22 July 2011

Green Desert, Blue Skies and Silver Lining

I cycled alone.  I chose my own time schedule; when I was hungry, what I would do in my breaks, whatever length of time I wanted for my breaks.  These minor factors seemed very exciting, I felt free.
I made sure I crossed the border from Zambia to Namibia on my birthday just so someone could check the date and I could feel like I was twelve again giggling and making some stupid comments.   Unfortunately the numerous Happy Birthday tiaras Steve got me with the rule of forcing everyone in my path to wear them with me seemed very inappropriate at the immigration office.
My mind reflected on past birthdays and then I concentrated on my present safety issues.   My one aim was to find a small village with women and children.  It was a densely populated area and babies are always everywhere so this was an easy task.  I donated the stove to Steve because I was eager to follow the local people and make fires.  I soon carried out my routine of collecting firewood with everyone and cooked my food, the native people were very impressed.  There was no time for birthday emotions and I realised this was probably the main reason people get on with their lives and situations talking of hopes and dreams just to stay positive.  They have many jobs to accomplish to put food on the plate; there is no time to complain on their journey of survival.   My birthday treat was ice cold water.  The lady from the village was very proud to hand over the bottle of ice and with good reason.   This had been the only village I had stayed in on my whole trip down Africa to have a fridge, a porter loo and electricity. 

A cycling pace is very good for bird spotting and the Caprivi strip in Northern Namibia was the perfect location.  All species of birds with their beautiful colours were singing and dancing everywhere.
I also spotted a young girl with her little brother.  He carried a 5kg massive bag of maize.  I thought about what she must be telling him to entice him to carry the load.  “I’ll give you a sweetie”  “You’ll be stronger when you’re older, it’s very good training.”   This reminded me of what I have been told about Fraternities, social organisations that take place in USA Universities.  This is a very similar situation where the older guys control the activities of the younger naive new comers who have just started the University.  These debortuary activities then decide whether the newcomer is allowed to join the society/house or not.  I am learning a lot on my travels!!  I would like to thank my USA mates for informing me about the American society so I can make such comparisons to make me smile.
As Cape Town sets into winter the main direction of strong wind unfortunately headed from South to North following the warmer climate.  This was a new challenge and meeting two Swiss cyclists who then tell me about a man eating lion who killed a guy 10km from Kongola (the town I was heading to) did not help at all.   I persevered and cycled very slowly along a stretch through thick bush with warning signs of elephants.   This was the least of my worries, a lion was a challenge I would never be ready to face.  Luckily my chain broke just outside of Kongola and a man in a pick-up truck dropped my bike and I at God Cares Primary School.  I really appreciated the hot shower, food and sanitary things they gave me for on the road although I wasn’t too sure about what they were teaching the kids.
They went through the 5 F’s teaching the kids health education;
F - Food: Don’t eat bad food.
 I don’t like to waste food never mind what it looks like, if it tastes ok I will eat it.
As for my saucepan, I would be lucky if the chargrilled onion from yesterday’s meal unattached itself from the bottom. 
F - Filth: Keep yourself clean.
Unfortunately my plate is orange so the black dirt is quite obvious.
F - Flies: They carry disease.
They love my tasty salty skin, what can I say?
F - Faeces: The bacteria / worms can spread.
Watch out you find them in bushes (known as the African toilet).  If you’re lucky you might find a real toilet; either a hole or something more substantial possibly with a seat.
F - Fingers: Keep them clean.
My face gets dirty in 2 minutes and this dirt escalates from my fingers.  My nails are never clean so I like to keep them short.  I blame the chain!
Ha, I couldn’t laugh in there face but the 5 F morals go out of the window the moment I step on my bike. 

The Swiss cyclists I met also explained I must hand around outside petrol stations in any town.  It is the best place where they have had generous people offering them a place to stay for the night.  I liked the idea it took me back to my teenage years, although I was never encouraged to hang around petrol stations!!  Unfortunately the idea did not work in slightly bigger towns; tried, tested and failed.
Namibia is not well equipped for backpackers but it does have some great picnic areas which generally spread every 10km on the main (tarmacked) roads.  The furnishings are painted in blue and white so it is like your own kitchen with tables, chairs and even a bin.  Some areas are in the state of a student house (the 2 or 4 legged animals have got to the bins) with rubbish sprawled everywhere, but most are clean and tidy. 
The picnic spots have also been very useful for camping.  It was always going to happen.  It completely makes sense using the kitchen facilities and adding our tent / home and stove /cooking facilities to make a good camping spot.

I loved travelling on my own.  I was more vulnerable and people were definitely more surprised than ever and this compilation brought some amazing characters that just wanted to look after me.  I was given a bed and ended up staying with the family as a guest for 5 days as their backyard /campsite was empty.  Thank you Hennie and Arinda.   I did help them with a few jobs (favour for a favour) including looking after their horses and building my first brick wall!  As an architect I persuaded them it would be easy to put theory to practice. 

Fun times on a bike
Goodwill comes in the hands that praise us
Nature revolves as humans find time to make way look after they
There is sin
Which is blown, taken in
From the truth as everybody likes to talk as you do
Especially about the fears / tears a story of having just escaped
A battle that made it, so I could say people but wait…
There were scary hard times but really without they
The people I would have given up a long time away
Nature does not always change
The flat bush stretches
My mind has to fetch
Something else…
Horses are bred charcoal is fed
The land now an industry well kept
Suddenly the miles give way
You feel good as the day
Isn’t yet over, salt molecules all over
What does this mean?
What does the evening bring?
You never know. 
The best bits will be remembered though.

Using couchsurfing.org in Otjivarongo was great.  I was not only given a bed but a 4X4 car!!  Thank you Anthony and Jules.  Suddenly Namibia was my oyster it was all too exciting.  This was the perfect time for Steve to catch up and meet me as there was a road trip ahead and I needed some company and of course a DJ!  We went to Etosha National Park, the animals were thriving.  I got out of the car to get the food and had lunch only to find three lions over the other side of the bush.  Thanks overlander guy for letting us know! This was good, I finally had my first experience of seeing lions in the wild.

It was a bonus to have my cycling partner back (Steve - www.cyclingthe6.blogspot.com ) on such flat monotonous roads and land.  Scanning the side of the road was as interesting as it got.  I saw many snakes and can now go to a pub and honestly say “Who would win between a baby puff adder battling a big lizard … the baby puff adder” and I even got photos to prove it. 
I am finally wearing lycra padded shorts now the temperature has dropped (they gave me heat rashes before).  I have also realised cycling gloves reduce vibrations on the handlebars, thank you Endura.  A strappy top is best for my tan and this top matches my cycling hat.  This hat has gone from being the most unused item in my expedition to a necessity to wear cycling through Namibia, it complies with road regulations.  Yes, there was a reason for bringing it – brilliant! 
So now I look like a true cyclist, it only took 7 ½ months!!!

Steve’s nature finds are getting dangerous.  There was an immediate halt as Steve spotted a puff adder on the road.  I flew into his bicycle and crashed sideways luckily landing on my hands.
We took the gravel / sand route from Omaruru to Spitzkoppe for a few days to reach the magnificent natural structures.  The feeling of accomplishment was great.  Rich beautiful surprisingly green scenery came with the off-road route; the land and concentration on cycling took the boredom factor from me.  I had fun getting the feel of my sturdy bicycle swaying and swooping everywhere like a ballet dance in the sediments.   There was a mighty feeling of success every time I nearly toppled unbalanced then picked myself up with another turn of the pedal to suddenly find graded gravel stable road.  Unfortunately I wasn’t successful all the time.         
Spitzkoppe view point stood tall in the middle of the soft layered desert which was all I could see for miles.  The desert was comprised of small collected mounds and then these huge rounded orange granite mountainous structures.  There is such thing as a mountain out of a mole hill!!

Amidst the descending desert road there is suddenly a hidden German town by the coast.  Swakopmund is great and we were very lucky to be staying with a family who took great care of us.  I met this lady for a few minutes while Steve sorted out the visas on the Zambia border.  We have been very lucky to meet great people, fellow travellers who understand our circumstances and have invited us in.  There is nothing like a family home.  I also stayed with a great French family when I was injured.  They are travelling the world in a fire truck!!  (www.chamaco.fr).  Thank you all.
Namibia is the second most scarcely populated country in the world.  It is uninhabitable because of the desert.  It is empty and beautiful.   I appreciated Steve at this point to get back into our wild camping.  I still could never find the guts to rough camp on my own.  My extra strong protector was back, I was safe.

There were some amazing camping spots.  One I specifically recall was the highest camping point we had ever reached on our bicycles.  With a steep rock facade in front of us there was only one way for it, we had to push the bikes and ourselves up the mountain; “We will get there for another spectacular African sunset”.  Time was of the essence.

We took the very rough off - road desert route from Swakopmund to Sossus Vlei.  Bumpy and tedious.  The pace and movements was excruciating.  My bumps affected my arse and my bike, the gravel was very unpredictable.  It reminded me of trampolining.  There is a game I played when I was small. Everyone crosses their legs and holds their toes while one person jumps.  The object of the game is to hold your balance and not fall over; if you topple you are out.  So I sat upright clenching my toes and holding the position to stay strong.   Suddenly there are heavy jerks across the trampoline.  I had no control I felt vulnerable, I tried so hard to stay in position and then I toppled. 
These roads stepped through some stunning landscapes.  The extra sweat and effort was worth it, the nature was beautiful.  As the sun goes down the light becomes darker and creates some beautiful hazy streams scattered all over the rolling hills.  There are stunning green undulating valley hills with mountains that go on forever until the view drops off the face of the earth.
The scenery, light and cool wind increased and hammered energy into me.  It was a real sensation.

So with the cycling attire; lycra and tight tops also came confidence, cockiness and of course daydreaming.   Not a great mixture!  Accidents had been surprisingly rare.  I might have been looking at the landscape...   I was collecting speed as usual heading down a slope with all my weight on my feet to push myself and my home up the next hill.  I have learnt to just keep arms wide on the handlebars to hold a good balance. This time this didn’t work as my bike dug into the dipped sandpit and swerved taking me completely by surprise and my bike sideways.  I was thrown over and caught my inner thigh on the handlebars.  Pain.  I had two days off.

All my confidence cycling through sandpits has fizzled out.  I am more careful now and even more slow.  The final off-road corner was long, much longer than I would have hoped and it was so rough.  It was like the locals had picked out stones to ensure there was a smooth tarmac road ahead.   The cars all came the road was suddenly busy.  The gravel and dust all rose into my mouth and lenses.  I was trying to close my eyes but realised I had to squint as I needed to see the boulders in the road.  The huge holes were not helping my arse.  This was the last hurdle, the last gravel, slowly slowly.  There is always a test of energy or patience and then suddenly it was smooth.
Steve and I both easily agreed and made a great decision to cut sideways across back onto the main tarmac road, from there to the border our speed finally increased.  I say increased, we hit the record of furthest distance in one day - 210km.  This was due to the general downhill gradient, the almighty wind and of course our fitness levels which were now rocketing sky high.

The weather has been on our side, there is always Blue Skies.  The cold came for a few nights although winter but only in the night.  In Africa the sun returns every day and heat is once again spread across the land it is great.   I was never afraid of getting too cold. This was also due to my amazing 3 season sleeping bag - Thanks to Kathmandu I was always snug in the night time.   
There were many South African and Namibian tourists on the same road as us; this was a special time of year.  Due to the very long wet rainy season this was the first time in ten years that there was a Green Desert with vegetation and water in the Sossus Vlei (salt and clay pan surrounded by red dunes) .  What luck, what an adventure.
Although it was a long rainy season it was obvious it was over.  We cycled past many dry river beds waiting for the next rainy season.  This would be like waiting for Christmas.  When it comes the water glisten’s like stars and provides gifts of life and health to all.
For me Namibia was all about the peace and quiet and of course the landscapes. 
Changing Landscapes
Not a sound just a mountain
The only one in sight
So high had to climb
To sleep closer to the stars
The streams or natural paths
Overtaken by misty morning fog
The sea line now outstretched
Slowly making a bed
Covering all

A sheltered spot between green mountains
The bottom of the valley
Steel quiet river
Soft mushroom hills
Cold front pushing
Rock shadows rising
Bouncing between eachother
Wild grass blowing with the wind
Sparkling gold wild shoots flowing
Stopped abruptly by falling pieces formed together
Cages cliffs pieces overturned
Natural high walls vast tall as fairytales
These heavens untouched
Only for creatures that can call like beasts
Vegetation envelopes all
The mountains shine
Brown to red, gold, green, yellow
The land and shadows dance in the dunes
Purple, blue
Changing colours
A reminder of reality
In a painting swept away by sand
Blowing fresh strong winds
Into the valley of dead trees
Gold pastures
Mountains dunes
A valley with water
Mountains rocks

Between the farms of the rich there were strange old torn away towns.  The South of Namibia had almost been forgotten.  This area had many blacks and coloured people displaced by the South Africans.  Namibia became independent only 20 years ago and since then there has still been no hope or prosperity for some towns.  From a rocky past the people just sit and do nothing, they have given up hope.  They depend on the farms around the small town to provide food.  Although Namibia is now seen as being better off there is a huge difference between the rich and the poor.  Robbery and crime are very high in these places of extreme poverty.

As always we were told of the danger but remained safe wild camping and being invited into farmhouses.  Many people gave us phone numbers incase we had any trouble but there was none. Generous Namibians gave treats; jumpers for the cold further south, food, water on the road.  People were again hospitable and extra friendly.
The best quirky campsite I had stayed in in Namibia was Garas Park 2km off the B1 which was the main road we were cycling down.  It was in the middle of a Quiver tree forest.  There were sculptures, facilities and furnishings all made out of scrap objects and this unique wood.   We stayed in a thatched Rondavel both the walls and roof was thatched.  This is a style of housing I have often researched about and found in Africa.  This was the type of architecture I have been looking into and teaching myself throughout Africa.  African villages are all constructed by the local people using local materials.   I was in my own dream.
It was funny to see the owners face though when we asked about the hot showers.  “Erm showers erm yes erm hot what now?”  We had heard this before, we had seen this face before!!!  In Namibia most houses use a ‘donkey’ which is a steel cyclinder / oven which has a flume at the top.  Wood is burned at the bottom to then use the energy to heat the water.  Luckily I had seen and used these things before – the moral of the story is never use paraffin it will scold you!
Of course we have seen a whole new selection of road kill.  Although many locals were shocked we found the bones of a brown hyena in a rather populated area (for Namibia).


I am surprised I have seen more armoured crickets alive than dead.  These big insects love crossing the main road.  They look like they’re tip toeing along the road with ballet shoes on.  Suddenly I whoosh past on my bike.   I hope they know how lucky they are for not yet being squashed.  They hold their ballerina feet onto the road like they are in sticky honey and let the force of the wind and bike move their body.  It is great to watch.   
On the final speedy 210km day we hit the Namibian border town in great spirits, this was also my final country to cycle through.  The comforts of home were in reach there was a Silver Lining.  The distant landscape looked as if I was looking through an aeroplane window.  The glare of faded light blended all the mountains and land into a similar faint glow.  This was the perfect sundown and shady mountain scenery descending down to the border; A perfect finish to Namibia.