Zambia; A Peoples Place





The border crossing was intensive.  I only fitted 6 hours sleep in before the 150km journey from Lilongwe (Malawi’s party capital) to Chipata, Zambia.  It was hell but I managed it and made sure I had an early night.  The next evening was also very late as I planned a safari in South Luangwa and did not know the distance or the state of the road. I should have known this was my 6^th month in Africa.  The local bus spent 2-hours collecting and fitting everyone and anyone into it before heading back to Chipata.  The bus ended up leaving South Luangwa at 11p.m. so there was no hope of an early night.  This was changed and prolonged as the bus decided to drive over the big stones put in the middle of the road in a line to avoid vehicles to drive in the lanes being constructed.  Funnily enough the bus broke down.  Arrival time was unfortunately 4a.m. and I then cycled another 100km the next day.  I was tired but all ended well… we found our first cyclist, Yves from Belgium who we cycled with for the next four days up and down to Lusaka.  It was great to have more company.  We compared cycling regimes and pumps (only joking conversation never turned too serious!!) 

Steve and Yves my two husbands (the african ladies laughed)

As for safari if you want too much you never get.  After the whole escapade I still did not see lions, leopards or hyenas but I did get to see porcupines, impalas and a hippos fat arse in 50m strong head torchlight.

Hippo

Impalas fighting

Zambia is once again English speaking.  So much so it is the first language and people in the main towns will speak to each other in Afro-English (English with the funny African twang).  The British colonisation has definitely paid off for travelers like me to understand and enjoy the African way of life.

Having arrived in Lusaka the first item on the itinerary as in most capital cities is to visit the National Museum to understand and learn about the culture.  This made me realise I had cycled past a tribal circumcision celebratory dance (Nyawe dance) going on in one of the villages on the way to Lusaka.  The kid was covered in paints with white striped clothes and had a mask on.  He was stomping his feet and shaking his hips to represent the spiritual foundation.

The capital of Zambia, Lusaka seemed like my hometown.  After 5 nights of hanging out, socialising at the local bar I felt like I knew everyone.  Cycling on I thought about and missed some lively extreme characters that replaced my open empty mind on the road.  People everywhere made political disputes, open debates and friendly conversation.  Guys chatted to me as I nibbled bread sitting on the pavement outside the Internet café, in the local restaurant, passers by walking back from town in my direction.  I had a lot of fun chatting.

I had a great opportunity at the campsite in Lusaka.  I watched the killing and joined in to help the kitchen staff with the preparation of a chicken being served for dinner.  This is when I realised I was not and would never be a vegetarian. 

The best bit was definitely the introduction when the locals had to chase, leap and dive across our campsite to catch the chickens and tie them by the feet.  This was the first time I have actually thought for one minute that chickens are cleverer than you think.

The happy faces of the villagers were mentioned in a talk with people from my local bar in Lusaka.  Deep talk went on and people from the bar described the village people were very excited and welcoming because we were tourists visiting their home.  This is not the real village life.  They smile at you but live in a simple world full of irrational dependencies and struggle.  The locals in the cities don’t go to the villages, as people are not smiling, they are working very hard trying to live.  My experience of the villagers has led me to believe they are secret scientists.  The resources they have and use fascinate me.  They use everything they have to the full potential.  Fruit ferments to sugar, maise grows which is then dried crushed and grinded into small pieces.  This is then mixed with water to make the local rice / porridge food eaten across most of East Africa.

Back on the road I soon thought about the most fearsome things when cycling;

• A flat / blow out of my tyre when I am cruising downhill could cause some serious damage as I would fly at top speed head first off my bike.
• While my mouth is ajar again speeding downhill a bee could fly into my mouth, sting my throat and suffocate me (many bees have flown into my forehead).
• Meeting a four-legged predator would be bad news, as the animal will naturally chase you on your bicycle to hunt you down.  So one solution, you must get off your bicycle and be the stronger bigger predator but then you cannot cycle off to save yourself??  All this is concluded with people’s writings and opinions that say the two-legged friend is always worse!!

While cycling I often feel like I am in the Nintendo game Zelda, the Ocarina of Time.  I hear a “Hey” and I have to look everywhere and work out the direction of the sound.  Suddenly I see this kid hidden in the bush with a frantic hand waving so I smile and wave back.

We continued the random adventures staying in villages, churches and a coffee farm.  The difference in lifestyle is outstanding...

Church

 

Village

 

Coffee Farm House

When I reached Livingstone (the home of Victoria Falls) I was blown away with the best camping backpackers hostel in East Africa, Jolly Boys.  This is due to the self-catering kitchen; it had a kettle, 2 fridges, 2 electric stoves, and 2 microwaves.  One week back I would have been cooking on our stove sitting on an item made into a seat in the middle of nowhere.  The place was unbelievable,  many activities to be done not to mention the lovely people. 

Booze cruise after party

Victoria Falls

I was shocked at the hospitality of some American guys (USA mates) going around the world in 70 days (travelingmbas.tumblrcom).  When talking about our trip the guys enjoyed buying food and chocolate for us.  As long as Steve didn’t write, “Feed me” one night out on my forehead this was always great, thank you.

A traditional Sunday

Emma; a Sheffield lass who I met at Jolly Boys joined me for my Sunday.  She sat on the rack of my bike as I cycled to the market.  This shocked many of the locals who turned and took photos.

‘A tourist, a girl carrying another girl on the back of a bike surely it is not possible?’

The local African girls are always sitting at the back while the men cycle to get them to their destination.  Equality hasn’t quite reached Africa yet.

Just about to head to the market we heard the church choirs singing. The ratio of reading and singing was really great.  There was much more singing and dancing involved than in an English Catholic Church Service.  We decided to sit in the courtyard of the church and listened to the singing while meeting the local children.  The eldest spoke all of the English words and phrases she knew.  As soon as the doors opened people started flooding out in the most beautiful outfits.

My opinions of religion have definitely changed since I have been in Africa.  From my views and opinions that religion causes war I have found harmony and fun community gatherings.  There are peaceful services to give people time to reflect.  In Africa a country with so many problems people find hope and worship God to have a meaning to life.  The lessons are to cherish and love one another, to believe and have peace in you.  There are so many laws and good teachings.  On my bicycle hearing the gospel singing most Sundays and watching groups gather I feel a comfort in the African society.  I will prioritise to find time to reflect each week on a Sunday, the day of rest.  Whether on my bike, sitting in the courtyard, writing by the pool, there should always be time.

Instrument / dong used to notify people church is about to begin

One of the last villages I stayed at in Zambia on the road to Shesheke (the border town) was amazing.  I washed in a shack with a bucket of hot water (hot water is a real treat, very rare) the lady supplied.  When I went back to my tent I found a table, chair, bowl, towel, saucepan and cutlery all neatly laid out.  They shared their food and I did mine and we sat by the coal burner and sung gospel words with my ukelele.

I will not forget my stay at New Beginnings Farm.  This name was very appropriate, as I had made a big decision to finally cycle a section on my own and split from Steve.

There was a shorter route I wanted to take so I could spend more time with my drawing book.  I felt the need for freedom, for campfires, for ukelele time.

I now trusted Africa and myself and took the road on my own to Namibia.

A big heart in Africa

Malawi is bliss.  A relaxing tourist friendy fun lively place.  This is where the name “Africa for Beginners” came from.   A very honest statement;

• People are friendly / lovely

• Locals treat you as a person rather than a white muzungu (this is because there are so many tourists/ expats / charity workers who live there)

• Everyone speaks english to the best level I have heard in Africa yet

Even for cyclists

• Relatively flat only two memorable climbs

• Minimal traffic

• Traffic leaves space for cyclists

• Well made smooth tarmacked roads

• Bore holes placed everywhere great fresh free water supply 

On my first day of cycling I reached the beautiful Lake Malawi known as the Lake of Stars (named by famous explorer David Livingstone) as the sun sparkles on the surface.  This Lake is s 360 miles long and 25 miles wide (half the length of the UK).
North Malawi was exciting Rnb Raga African clubbing music blared out on the streets and there were people cycling everywhere.  In the first 50km I counted 10 vehicles and numerous amounts of bicycles (too many to count).  I sped along the flat passing perfect sandy beaches all along the Lake. 


Dappled light spreading beaming out onto waters
Almost sea so far a misty horizon
Hilly vegetation tears the shadows to frame the sides
My side a sandy shore crashing waves soothing sounds
What more for relaxation
A sanction closed in
The wooden canoe carved from tree a mere plant pot
As one struggles in the same tree cut on the lake
But no mistake
He can read the clouds and understands the temperatures knowing the route
Happily paddles right to left as trickles ring roses on waters on tent
No extra current or storm or stress
Malawi will be whats brought, here
Although no people all thoughts do appear
Fall asleep catchup on that lost dream
Wake up to
Tranquility





We gave ourselves many half days on the bike cycling approximately 60km a day.  It was time to appreciate the country; learn and enjoy the culture!!  We stayed in touristy camping spots with quiet beaches (out of season)  Apparently the wet season was just ending although I specifically recall being woken to heavy noisy rain and water seeping through the tent 3 nights in a row at the beginning of the Malawi experience – it is hard to forget these occasions. 
I have appreciated the clear skies in the morning though.



Mzuzu was a big town, a stop where we made our triangle - bed, restaurant, internet.  We met some lovely people Dave and Kate who we then met again at the next campsite.




We had some fun including fishing with some local guys, swimming, sunbathing and Church (as it was Easter).  Church is much more fun in Africa and we were all tempted by the poster in the main street in town “Find your miracle”!! There was loud speakers sending gospel singing drums and chanting across the bay. 
I soon realised Malawi is like a small town.  Everyone travels down the main route next to the Lake and stops at the same campsites all with the best reputation. The locals also travel to the Lake for their holiday it was bank holiday easter weekend.  Nkata Bay was lively and packed with music events.  The clubs had african drums and singing in the outdoor areas I once again danced the night away.  I had to walk to the local markets and local cheap places for food on the beach to make sure I was still taking in some culture!  I suppose I can't help it if the Malawi style African culture involves a lot of drinking.  


Friendly faces smiling secretly wondering how why
But in questions and answers you ease the sense of scale and explain the routine managed
Well relaxed into the system see more than you'd hope for
Meet so many you forget half more
Always moving to places the journeys kind greetings shocked faces
Another thought same lake
Never stop contemplating never search for the end
Live for now



Very sociable people;  we watched a local football match between the prisoners and the policeman!!  The atmosphere, community spirit and the binding of people was really good fun to get involved with.  These two groups of people playing football in the UK would be a real effort with far too much hassle and security for any positive payback. 

Back on the bike you can sweat a few days hangover out in no time, following the Lake was stunning.  Mountains in the distance bordered the natural bush as I rode over numerous river crossings gushing fresh water from the wet season feeding Lake Malawi.  We had to cut off the main Lake road halfway down Malawi and headed West across to the capital Lilongwe which followed to our next country Zambia. 




As Malawi is a very populated country when we stopped cycling at sundown we often found ourselves asking the village where there was a good safe spot to sleep.  These random places were interesting and brought some funny and shocking facts I must share;
Slept at the primary school in a local village – 1000 pupils, 7 teachers
Slept at a police station – A guy from the village stole a cow and was being arrested and jailed for 3 years.
Didn't sleep at the bank but very ridiculous fact;
NBS bank in Nkata Bay was robbed by people who just tied up the security guard then helped themselves to the bank.

So 2/3's down the line I am still surprising myself as to how little time I am finding for myself.  While cycling the days are easily filled.  I take photos.  Think. Eat.  Listen to music.  Eat.   Elaborate thinking.  I have read 6 books and kept up to date with my diary.  I draw and play music when I can although 6 months on the road my ukele string has finally snapped.
Onwards to Zambia.  My hair is growing slowly.  I don't look like a sociopath anymore ( the skinhead has gone).  I have bought a chitenga – african colourful sarong.  It was very hard to walk past so many beautiful patterns in the market and not buy one due to the weight on the bike.  This item is definitely my best buy although we have bought 25 bananas for 200 Kwatcha (10p)  but food goes very quickly so as cheap as it is it cannot be the best buy as they lasted 1 day!!
My chitenga on the other hand can be used as a towel, sarong, changing room, dress, top or skirt.  






I continue finding strange species
I continue my adventure
Onwards to Zambia...

Zanzibar

Below men wait... delay
Hacking away into the minds of tourists
Hoping the opportunist himself will capture and release the need to spend
Alleys fill as pressures mark the ways of interchange
Languages, buildings, markets
The religious sounds separate the boundaries
Absorb the people into sanction
Time passes the splendour is disturbed and advanced
Shouting words
Always going to be white in this nest of wealth, health
Treasures not shared
Emotions rejected unprepared
Barriers so hard to cross as corruption costs
Pulls people further
Lives cry
Above governments high flying lives
A commonplace for all tourists to see and spend
All luxuries owned by them
Betrayed what can the people do but wait
Hope in God hope that they
The citizens still sit waiting
Tourists buy an item
To get by secure their life
The rooftops alter slated to corrogated
Putting people in their class
Slowly things will turn into the past
Laid back people seem
The palm trees a signature of peace
In the vast array shaped and aligned with the blue horizon
Is Heaven

Sun Shores and Spinning Spinning Spinning...

The journey continues and I have found out that Tanzania breeds horrible Lorries... Not only do they drive very fast alongside of you but they don’t slow down or drive ultra slow so you can jump on the back and they certainly don’t offer you a lift with waving actions from the drivers seat.  How selfish!  After many speedy annoying Lorries I later found out Tanzania have a law against heavy truck loads.  There are regular weighing bridges for the weight of the lorry to be checked before they are given permission to carry on with their journey.  So they drive fast as they are not all overloaded I presume this is to make sure they can climb the hills that Tanzania offer. 
Speaking of Lorries I made some fun and games on the bicycle.  It has got to this stage!!  I entertain myself while cycling through the countries of Africa and see how many responses honks waves toots I can accomplish by smiling, enticing and waving at Lorries.  They are on the road for a long time too which is why I have come to understand most wave back to fill their seconds into minutes making minutes into hours and so fourth.
Waving at Lorries has become such a natural habit.  While being told to hold Steves load on top of his bike as he was adjusting his panniers at mid stance a lorry drove past.  Not only did I let go of the load but I wacked Steves eye with my finger tips.



Often speaking to locals I try and explain what we do and why we are on the trip.  When we have a big stop we like to find our comfort zone; our triangle.  This triangle has a bed (rest), a restaurant (food) and the internet (communication).  After explaining the triangle to a local he came up with a great response “I guess that matches your nature”.  It made me smile his triangle is probably very different.

The Maasai tribal people are back.  I noticed the draped clothing and wrist and necklace accessories straight away.  Some still have the machete to kill any lions they happen to cross paths with.  Now I understand why the Maasai have the role of security in many establishments.  However skinny these guys look people know they have lived in the bush and fought for their lives on many occasions while hunting wild animals.  These semi-nomadic people are located in Kenya and northern Tanzania. 


While on route the reoccurring question that people have often asked is What are the differences between Africa and England.  I try and explain about the need for time punctuality and how being late is never good.  African time has another concept altogether.
I explain that people do not work hard in fields and in manual labour but most jobs are dependant and organised on computers.  The technical skills and fixing opportunities people create here in Africa is unbelievable.  Nothing is waste everything can be reused and recycled it is very interesting watching the hand craftwork delivered on the street.
Finally instead of ibis birds flying over in circles we have geese that are fly in triangular patterns on a mission south to much warmer climates as England is freezing.



They often look back at me in bewilderment.   I don’t mention the sun is bigger, the trees are bigger and the creatures are definitely double the size this would be even more confusing.
Yes I have reached central Africa.  It is a different world which I have relaxed into, continuing to learn and of course exercise.  Africa has definitely taken me back to basics in life - What a journey.
This is a nasty thought that I take it back already but hills are so much easier to climb when someone ahead is struggling with a fully loaded up the same route.  The local Chinese bikes that are imported look heavy and have no gears.  The native people carry everything / allsorts on their bicycles to sell at the local market.  This could be up to 30km away for some unfortunate guys that live in the bush.  I wish I had pictures of all of the objects I have seen transported by bicycle here are a few:

















I thought I had got too relaxed; the wet seeping sides of my tent and the uncertainty of rain made us decide to sleep in a guest house.  Even with a working stove and sun burning skies at the end of the day, we were still paying pennies so there was no real decision to be made although Bear Grills would probably look down on us.  This is no survival, this is comfort.  The thing is Steve and I have struggled to predict the weather although the locals usually know (sixth sense).  A beautiful clear sunset in the sky does not mean it won’t rain.
Some say the rainy season was just ending others say it was starting whether miscommunication had anything to do with it I will never know.  What I do know is when rain falls in the tropics it heaves its way to the ground and I also know I bought my tent in Cairo which sees little rainfall.  I was not very well equipped.  My mobile home was not doing me justice.
We were very lucky on the cycling front; most occasions the rain came down heavily at night and the fresh mornings were a dream.  The mist filled my pathway; the cool temperature and mysterious outset was stunning.


Some days the rain trickled while the sun still shone.  This was a beautiful cool shower on the bikes but the pot of gold never appeared!



There was one particular storm on the bikes which I will never forget.  Bad times always bring better ones.  The rain was twisting in all directions I couldn’t see anything ahead.  It was a very lucky escapade as a german construction worker building the roads decided to pick me up and dropped me into this 5* bungalow village (like center parcs in Europe).  Determined as ever Steve cycled on but I think he appreciated me giving in to the lift when he arrived at the compound with a swimming pool.  Free food and drink, any wash please hand it to the cleaning lady.  This was all in the middle of the bush; a route we had been cycling through West from the Rwandan border to Dodoma, the capital of Tanzania.  This conveniently broke up our 10 day epic cycling mission – I think I would have been ok but at the same time this was the longest time I would have cycled (everyday for 10 days does not sound fun.)
The terrains were relatively flat and our fitness and natural speed had picked up from the Rwandan winding hills.  We arrived in Dodoma a day early.




April Fools

My way of life at the moment is making me more adaptable and laid back.  I find this is the easiest option to deal with everything that gets thrown at me.  On the 1April Steve decided to trick me in the traditional way and told me we had an extra 40km to cycle after Dodoma to reach the couch surfers apartment next to Dodoma airport.  After 5 days of straight cycling I often find myself getting very excited when reaching the destination even if it is a dirty street filled with traffic, shops, markets and people.
My comment was “Oh ok we can stay in Dodoma central tonight and finish off our cycle tomorrow morning” A very relaxed response Steve couldn’t keep up with it and shouted April Fools!!

Having cycled 9000km from Cairo looping around Uganda and Rwanda then East to Dodoma, Tanzania it was time Steve and I departed to make sure we appreciated each others company on return.  What a perfect time to do so, I took a bus straight to Dar Es Salaam and relaxed and read my book on the white beaches of Kigamboni.  The weather was overcast for one of the days so I ended up playing netball, painting and teaching English with kids at the local community centre.  This was another charity experience I walked across.  There are many small enterprises going on to help support and stabalise African communities and it is always fun to join in and see the smiles of thanks in return.
I then got a Ferry to Zanzibar / Heaven for a bit of rest and recouperation.  After months of non-stop travelling, adventure and cycling I can assure you it is still very easy and possible to relax on a beach, sunbathe and swim all day.  I was not restless as Steve suggested I might be; I enjoyed and appreciated every minute of it.



Yes it is a separate country from Tanzania like England is a separate country from Ireland and yes you do need your Yellow Fever certificate.  This is the beauty of travelling on my own as a female I managed to blag my way through the immigration office.
My couchsurfing experiences and the pure hospitality I found in Tanzania and Zanzibar made some really great memories.  I was spoilt, Thank you.

My final day in Tanzania heading to the Malawi border was astounding.  The morning was painfull – uphill and offroad so we deserved everything else to come. On the right stood miles of mountains, the green beamed off the hills and the shadows created the thick dimensions of the vegetation.  On the left I could see the infamous Lake Malawi and a horizon filled by flat plateau – our destination.  Singing and smiling to myself, scenes were stunning, cycling was perfect.  Yes you guessed it I was flying downhill for 50km all the way to the border.

On the road every day is different.  I carry on and I love it.

 

Pacing onwards

Rwanda seemed very rushed, the minute I entered we were cycling at full pace heading to the capital Kigali to meet our irish friends we met in Uganda the night before. This was the first time where we crossed the border and arrived at the capital city on the same day. Songs are great to keep you occupied on your way; going up, up, up... and down “Everyday is a winding road, get a little bit closer...” by Cheryl Crow was the song of the day.
I could not compare or recollect any thoughts zooming through the vegetated valleys and platforms of rice fields... suddenly we were heading to town.

That night was St Patricks Night which called for celebrations. This was a reoccuring moto in Rwanda; many celebrations for many occasions mainly birthdays, the weekend, or St. Patricks Day which we celebrated twice on the Thursday and Saturday (there was good reason at the time!!) Being the country of 1000 hills we decided to take a bus to meet our VSO (voluntary service organisation) friends that we had met in Ethiopia for another party. The engine was a soothing effortless feeling, swirling up the green hills. Green they were; the heavy rain forcasted for the wet season fell and the roads turned into rivers.

Rwanda is small. It is the 15^th most densely populated country in the world. The hills are filled with corrugated iron rooftops and sloping tea plantations. Sprawled below lie divisions of water canals and the rice fields full of workers earning and maximising the farmland.

People talking about the hills and impossible cycling route of Rwanda left me with very high expectations. I thought of San Francisco, I got winding steady tarmacked slopes which was slow but definately possible.  My fitness had improved.  I had now been cycling the same distance as Steve had when I first met him - 8200km across Europe and the Middle East. 

After visiting a museum explaining all about the ghastly situation and affects of the very recent 1994 Rwandan genocide I was horrified. I couldn't help thinking and looking at things differently. People my age were orphans. A whole generation wiped out. Caged faces were potentially hidden but the elder people felt more reserved.

The children will be the new hope the ones that will be effected but will not remember.

The only person that opened up to me and actually spoke about the genocide mentioned the numerous positive factors that came from the shocking event...

1. People lined up for one bus which then departed instead of the conductors shouting, competing and getting people in their one bus of which there were several going in that same direction.
2. You have to wear a helmet on a taxi motorbike and each bike is only allowed to carry one person on the back.
3. People get points from police if you sell items on the street on an illegal pitch to make sure everyone has an equal amount of space to market their product.

There is organisation.  It is the closest I have felt to civilisation for a long time.
Soon enough we were back on the loaded bikes heading across to Tanzania - only 2 days cycling from Kigali. The Rwandan border was unforgettable; only Rwanda has this exit. We had to cross a bridge with the most energetic waterfall and river followed by a very steep climb linking one immigration office to another.   A beautiful strong country.  I am very pleased we decided to cycle across West on a loop from Uganda to Rwanda instead of keeping to the southern route.  Now back on track the journey continues to Tanzania...

Ease and Flow

Uganda; The place the people the vibe is one you have to experience. This was my favourite country to travel through so far as I slowly undertake East Africa by bicycle.

The world is changing while I am travelling. The Middle East is in turmoil, we are now in the century of the movement of the people. Just before we entered Uganda the presidential elections were taking place in the capital city Kampala. The elections were said to be rigged, everything was up in the air. We decided if anything was to happen as two white people on a bicycle we would not be the main target. I am very pleased we chose to enter Uganda, I have only great memories.

What a thrill; I had many life threatening, heart jumping experiences;

• Rafting down the River Nile - Grade 5 rapids


• Boda bodas (local motorbike / taxis) - One took us on a sharp left we just missed crashing into a herd of Oxs'


• Unlatched my front brake pads - I clenched onto the wrong brake lever going top speed down hill
  
  

  From Egypt and Sudan both Islamic countries where girls weren’t allowed out; to Ethiopia where clubs had one type of shoulder bopping music; then Kenya where people restricted their lives and talked about the amount of city crime (as a white person / muzungu I didn’t test it out). I finally let loose in Kampala. What a city, I don’t know why Winston Churchill called it ‘The Pearl of Africa’ but I will have to second him on that one for the safe fun friendly partying capital of East Africa.

  Kampala is full of good people. We went to the bars on boda bodas (local motorbike/taxis) to anywhere at anytime. I absolutely loved it and improved my fitness dancing throughout the night. I also found out it is possible to fit 4 people on one motorbike!!! Ok, there are not many rules and many accidents highlighted in the local newspapers which is why it is second on my list of life threatening experiences.
  

  

  
  There is still an obvious money divide as markets expand into malls on top of one another.Shops overflow onto the streets with anyone trying to sell something to make a living.
  The city centre is blocked with matatus (local buses) piling up diagonally in the one direction every vehicle is trying to get to.The transport centre spilling traffic forms smog and queues in this one area.Although the matatus are at standstill the gaps between the buses are more than active as people line up and barge through to reach their destination.As I pushed myself through this mass mess I was pleased to finally enter streets of moving vehicles.
  

Police riot vans made the situation very real and patrolled the streets as the local elections continued. I am lucky the elections were more than peaceful. The native people celebrated and held an election party in a field for all ages. Steve and I heard the music bouncing off the hills straight into our youth hostel so decided to follow the sounds and trekked in the dark with our head torches for miles to find the most relaxed free rave / party.

Part of me has to admit I did miss the rain after the 4 months of hot dry weather. It was lovely and refreshing when the heavens finally opened for the first time in Kenya. The storms produced clean cool smelling scents and stunning mist landscapes I highly appreciated while cycling on. Now I am facing facts the rain will start every afternoon and will probably continue throughout the night. Instead of waking up at 6 to get kilometers done before the heat attacks us we have decided to get up at 6 so we can finish cycling slightly earlier in hope we don’t get rained on.

Welcome to the tropics, to the green hills, to the rain, to the storms. The natural wonders have turned into valleys of rainforests and crater lakes.

As a cyclist I noticed and appreciated the effort that goes into the farmland. People depend on the rainy season to grow crops all year round. The organisation and preparation for the rainy season is outstanding. We passed dosens of banana and tea plantations filled with workers all waving and whistling at us as we cycled along.

The reactions of people I pass on my bicycle have really made me laugh out loud. My favourite are;

• Are you sick?
• How much are you getting paid?
• What are you selling?

And lets not forget the kids who seem to have there own level of energy and laughter.



Eco tourism is very prominent in Uganda. Most activities support projects in the local community. It made a difference as I handed over a large amount of money to do something I thoroughly enjoyed knowing it was going to the right people; being shared. This is the first country where tourism has noticeably been managed well and created a positive impact within the local communities. The locals all cycle and collect water in 40 litre yellow barrels from water bore holes which are dispersed at random. These were very handy fresh sterile free water supplies; we joined the community and filled up our water bottles.

For me Uganda has been a continuous trail of activities and adventure.The country has so many things to do and see and is relatively small compared to others I have cycled through.The cycling only lasted a maximum of 3 days until we were based at another backpackers’ campsite meeting a few more people, enjoyed sharing stories with the tourist and travelling world.
Joining the 'sights to see' on bike was therefore really interesting and broke up the days where I stayed in the tourist bubble. Interacting with the local people is always fun. We camped or stayed in really cheap simple guest houses and got provided a bucket of water to wash and a hole for the toilet. The balance of tourist (equipped) and locals (lacking in basic facilities) worked well. I realise now how adaptive I have become. I will never take a hot shower and not appreciate the every second the shower still flows.
My fitness must be improving as I rarely get constant pain in my legs.One steep off-road track comes to mind while cycling to the stunning Lake Bunyonyi in South West Uganda.The pain of used muscles in my legs was almost as painful as reaching 4 regular speed bumps in a row that you MUST brake for.This often disturbs all of my speed gliding at full pace downhill and I return to the slow snail for the next uphill.
The tourist activities are endless.

Queen Elizabeth National Park reminded me of the cartoon The Wild Thing I stood meters away from huge wild animals.

Steve and I canoed around the islands on Lake Bunyonyi filled with nature and organic architecture. This was a good team working exercise. After we both got over being controlling and stubborn, when we realised who was going to be the one to take charge we progressed and worked together drifting at speed through the safe waters (6500ft - deepest lake in Uganda / no hippos or crocodiles). This was essential as we had to push and fight with extra force to get into the harbour on time. The wind had picked up, the rain droplets were forming circular patterns on the water; the rainy season has begun.

I loved everything about Uganda apart from a few guys calling me Sir!! (my shaved head attracts even more attention). I have made a pact with myself to continue all plans whatever the weather and have succeeded so far, the rain will not defeat me.

Uganda was a very easy pleasant country to travel through although the rain has started to flow. I hope my tent I bought in Cairo designed for the hot Sahara weather lasts these two months of downpour.

The forests are alive with sounds

Insects bleak repetitive call create the bass

Lines of vapour

Non stop bird sirens

Water movements patterns

Monkeys high sway the trees

Creeks leaves rustles

Deep into the midsts overshadowed

At ease in the maze of vegetation

The world of nature covered

Hidden